Types of Gold Jewelry: Knowing the Difference Between Solid Gold, Gold-Plated, Vermeil and Gold-Filled

Knowing the distinctions between solid gold, gold-plated, vermeil, and gold-filled helps you as a consumer to choose a piece of jewelry that aligns with both your quality expectations and budget. Understanding the durability of each of the different types of gold will aid you in your selection of fine jewelry pieces that are suitable for everyday wear and special occasion wear.

Solid Gold Jewelry

A solid gold piece has no layers. It is made entirely of gold (usually 24K, 18K, or 14K depending on purity). Solid gold refers to pieces that are made entirely from a gold alloy, with varying degrees of gold purity (different types of gold karat). Pure gold (24K) is too soft for most jewelry applications, so it is mixed with other precious metals to improve its strength and durability.

Purity of Gold and Gold Alloys

Pure gold (24-karat gold) is solid gold in its purest form, containing 99.9% gold content with very minimal alloy precious metals. However, because it is soft, it is rarely used for regular jewelry pieces that need to withstand wear and tear. This type of gold is primarily used for investment, bullion, or high-quality jewelry pieces which will not receive daily wear.

22-Karat gold contains 91.6% gold and 8.4% other gold alloys like silver, copper, or zinc. It’s still relatively soft, but more durable than 24K. Certain cultures use this in fine jewelry, but it is not for everyday wear. Gold pieces that are 18K or 22K are considered to be hypoallergenic and better for those who have sensitive skin.

Featured below are two jewelry pieces that have a combination of two different karats: a 22/14K yellow gold necklace and 18/22K drop earrings.

18-Karat gold is made of 75% gold and 25% alloy precious metals like silver, palladium, and sometimes metals like copper. It is a popular choice for high-end jewelry, including engagement rings and luxury pieces because of its rich gold color and high purity. Buying 18K gold jewelry pieces is a good balance between the luxury of gold and durability.

18K gold is often the top choice for engagement rings due to its luxurious appearance, while 14K gold tends to be preferred for wedding bands because of its durability—helping couples balance beauty and everyday practicality when choosing an engagement ring vs. a wedding ring.

Below are some examples of 18K jewelry in hoop earrings, engagement ring, hammered diamond earrings, and a yellow gold filigree and white gold diamond bracelet. The hammered diamond earrings and filigree bracelet are examples of different crafting techniques used with gold.

14-Karat gold contains 58.3% gold, with the remaining portion made up of stronger metals like copper, nickel or precious metals like silver. This is one of the most popular choices for fine jewelry due to its balance of quality, affordability and durability, making it ideal for everyday wear. 

Jewelry trends are constantly evolving, with rose gold and mixed metal bands growing in popularity, providing unique options for those looking beyond traditional yellow gold.

The featured jewelry pieces below in 14K are a yellow gold tennis bracelet, a rose gold engagement ring, white gold diamond studs, and a yellow gold diamond solitaire necklace.

10-Karat gold is the least pure solid gold, with 41.7% gold and the rest made of other alloy metals. This is often used for more affordable jewelry options, such as fashion or costume jewelry. It’s very durable due to the high proportion of alloy metals, which could potentially cause allergic reactions. 

Below is a white gold pave diamond bypass ring, a white gold diamond necklace, a rose gold open lace band, and a yellow and white gold diamond inline tennis bracelet in 10K.

Different precious metals and metals will impact the color and shine of gold jewelry. For example, the use of copper gives rose gold jewelry its distinctive blush tone, while white gold contains non-precious or precious metals that include nickel, palladium or silver. Many of our customers opt for custom-designed diamond jewelry, where the choice of gold plays an important role in achieving the desired aesthetic and durability.

Gold-Plated Jewelry

Costume jewelry frequently uses gold-plating, which involves applying a thin layer of gold, usually less than 1 micron, over an inexpensive base metal through a process of electroplating. Electroplating is a cost-effective way to enhance or change the properties of an object without using solid precious metals or more expensive materials.

Gold-plated jewelry has a very thin layer of gold on top of a base metal like brass or copper. On the outside, it will look like gold, but underneath is a cheaper metal core. The gold layer is very thin so it can wear off quickly, exposing the base metal.

The thickness of the gold-plating is measured in microns (equal to 1/1000 millimeter). A high quality gold-plated piece might have a gold layer of around 1 to 2 microns thick. The total weight of gold-plated pieces will be lighter than heavier solid gold pieces.

White gold jewelry which is yellow gold mixed with non-precious and precious metals like nickel, palladium, or silver and is often plated with rhodium for a bright finish. It is more durable than yellow gold, but may require periodic re-plating to maintain its bright appearance. Featured are gold-plated silver sterling earrings with gemstones and a gold-plated watch.

Gold Vermeil Jewelry

Gold vermeil (pronounced ver-may) has a medium thick gold layer of at least 2.5 microns that is over a sterling silver base. The combination of sterling silver and gold gives it a bright, attractive finish, and the gold maintains its color better over time.

Gold vermeil has a thicker layer of gold than does gold-plated jewelry, providing better durability, but is thinner than gold-filled. This option is great for those who want a luxurious look without the higher cost of solid gold and is suitable for regular wear if cared for properly. Below is a silver sterling and gold vermeil vintage cuff bracelet.

Gold-Filled Jewelry

Gold-filled jewelry must contain at least 5% gold of the total weight of the piece. The amount of gold layer is significantly thicker than that of gold-plated jewelry, making it more resistant to wear and tarnishing. The core or base of the jewelry is typically made of non-precious metal such as brass or copper. The thick gold layer is bonded to this core.

Gold-filled pieces are often made with 14K or 18K gold which gives it a rich, golden appearance. Since the outer layer is real gold, gold-filled jewelry is typically safe for people who need a choice of jewelry that is hypoallergenic.

Gold-filled jewelry is more expensive than gold-plated jewelry but significantly less than solid gold. It offers a middle-ground option for those seeking long-lasting, high-quality pieces. Gold-filled jewelry is a good choice for everyday wear, as the thick layer of gold makes it resistant to tarnishing and fading over time. However, higher-end jewelry stores do not sell gold-filled jewelry because that type of jewelry is of much lower quality with the use of cheaper base metals.

Featured below is an amethyst beaded bracelet with a gold-filled chain.

Proper Care of Your Gold Ring

Choose 14K and 18K for everyday wear to maximize the longevity of your gold jewelry. Avoid exposure to harsh chemicals. Remove jewelry when cleaning, swimming, or applying lotions and perfumes.

Store your jewelry properly by keeping in a soft pouch or jewelry box to prevent scratches from contact with other pieces. For gold-plated jewelry and white gold jewelry remember you may need to have them re-plated periodically to restore their shine.

Use regular cleaning and maintenance for your gold jewelry. Use a soft cloth and avoid abrasive materials. For plated items, avoid harsh cleaning chemicals to prevent wearing down the gold layer. 

If you have an older ring that needs a refresh, consider resetting the engagement ring. This allows you to keep the sentimental value while giving it a modern or updated look.

Summary

Understanding the different types of gold jewelry–solid gold, gold-plated, vermeil, and gold-filled is essential for making informed choices that suit your needs, style and budget. Each type offers unique advantages and drawbacks.

• Gold-plated jewelry is the most affordable, perfect for fashion pieces, but its thin gold layer means it may wear off more quickly.

• Gold vermeil jewelry, with its sterling silver base and thicker gold coating, offers a more luxurious feel at a moderate price point. 

• Gold-filled jewelry stands out for its durability Gold-filled jewelry is made with a base of non- precious metal like brass or copper with a thick gold layer over it that resists tarnishing and offers longevity, making it ideal for everyday wear. 

• Finally, solid gold jewelry represents the ultimate in quality and value, with no base metals, making it a lifelong investment and easy to sell, but at a higher cost.

By understanding these differences, you can choose the right type of gold jewelry based on your preferences, whether you’re seeking durability, luxury, affordability, or a timeless heirloom.

For a jeweler you can trust, check us out online or come see our jewelry collection in person at The Estate Watch and Jewelry Company. We feature many types of jewelry with different karats of gold. Our experienced jewelers are happy to answer any questions you may have. We look forward to working with you!